New Years Shrine Visits [Part 2]

The second shrine I decided to visit was the most important one in Japan (right after Kamigamo, which is the second most important). When I was describing it to my parents I described it as the Vatican of Japan, if only because it's just as important to the shinto faith. That shrine is actually two but are jointly known as Ise Jingu [Ise Grand Shrine].

The journey there from Osaka actually isn't too bad. It's pretty easy to get there if you take the Kintetsu Limited Express Train to Ujiyamada Station [an old name for Ise] for about twenty five dollars. I was using a five-day JR pass that I bought for, you guessed it, five times that price but it's worth it for unlimited rides on all JR trains for five days and if it weren't for the New Year's holiday I would have made it out to Tokyo and back that way too. Instead I made it to just outside of Yokohama, but learned my train schedules pretty well because of it, which made this trip a whole lot easier.

There are actually two ways to get to JR Ise Station from Osaka. For a faster way I recommend taking the Biwako Express [no extra ticket charge on nonreserved] to Maebara, transferring to a train to Otsu/Gifu, hopping a new express to Nagoya and then waiting for the New Mie Rapid to come along and riding it down to the station you need. It's a pretty nice view, actually.

Somewhere outside of Taki...

If you want to be anymore scenic than that, then from Osaka you would take the loop line out to Kyoboshi and transfer to the JR Gakkentoshi line towards Nara, hop off at Kizu and take the train one stop to Kamo, then it's mountain train ride to Kameyama, where you can transfer to...the New Mie Rapid or a train heading towards Taki where you transfer again to Ise. If you've ever seen Spirited Away, then you can understand what the train to Kameyama is like. At night you can't see anything through the windows, and if you look at the front of the train you can only see what the train's light illuminates. It's pretty cool actually.

Yes, that is a truck. Yes it's driving under a stone torii.

Once you make it to Ise, if you do it early enough, then I recommend buying a Can Bus pass for six hundred yen, which gives you an all day pass on the Can Bus and includes a museum ticket. I got there around 3 PM and there were only a few more loops that day so I ended up just paying the fare for both ways. Because it was winter and I was short on time, I also decided to head straight to Naiku, the inner shrine and the one where the Sun Goddess Amaterasu is enshrined. It's also highly important considering the emperor is decided from Amaterasu, and as you can imagine...it's a pretty big deal. Just how big? It's so big it gets its own torii gate on the road there.

 Of course when I got there it was almost sunset, but because Ise is a coastal town, the sun takes a while to set. That's pretty awesome considering how late I got there. After passing through several more torii gates, one leading across a stone bridge, I made my way to the first sacred site in Naiku: the river. It has a specific name, but the way kanji work in shinto sites means it could be anything, but was written with the characters for "God River." Much like the Trevi fountain in Rome (if the Trevi fountain were full of Holy Water), you toss your money in, make a wish or prayer, and go on your way.

Sacred River...Sacred River...

Once you make your way to the inner most part of the shrine, you can no longer take photographs. I mean, you could, but I imagine it would be a pretty silly way to get deported. I don't recommend it, as it would be the same as taking a picture of the face of God. It's just not something you do. Because the kami (gods) of shinto carry power naturally, and need to be appeased or their power contained, Ise Jingu is rebuilt every 11 years and has been doing since around the 1200's, using the same building technique each time. 2013 is a rebuild year, and when I got there they were already building the new shrine on the northern site. Hopefully I can go before it opens, because both will be open at that point and Amaterasu just moved to her new home.

Another added benefit of the shrine being so old is that the trees and forest surrounding it haven't been encroached upon apart from modern improvements to certain areas (bathrooms installed or rest areas built). That means that there are some massive trees growing, and some areas that are roped off and marked with paper tags that show it as being sacred.

That person taking a picture is taller than I am.

After I did my looking around I did a quick peek into the shop area and that lead to an adventure in and of itself as I ended up getting lost on my way to the bus stop and walking to the first one I saw...about ten minutes away. I did make it back to the train, and took the Kameyama route back, which meant I made it back late. Unfortunately this was my last major trip over winter break outside of a small takoyaki museum, as the next day I came down with a high fever from a constant early morning-on-the-train-all-day schedule.

Then again, who knows. Maybe it was just the work of the kami.

I did end up going to Geku (the outer/lower shrine) and Naiku again over spring break, which is just a few posts away!

Until Next Time
~Zenko~

New Year's Shrine Visits [Part 1]

Part of the two week long New Year's celebration in Japan involves going to a shinto shrine and drawing your fortune for the year, as well as praying for a beneficial one. Of course, sense Kamigamo Shrine has turned out to be our favorite one, we decided to visit not too long after the New Year started. We didn't know it yet, but it ended up being one of the more important days to go, several of the shirne's artifacts were out and the ceremony for local businessmen was also starting up.

I found out pretty recently that it's not just sumo Kamigamo helped to invent in Japan, but horse racing as well. Which is why horses are also sacred to the shrine and before the main complex is a sacred stable with, you may have guessed it, a sacred horse. I don't think he's usually out, except for sacred occasions, such as this one. And when I say sacred, I mean it's treated as a god, so if you pay to get up close you can feed him a carrot and give him a pat to dispel all evil spirits.

God Horse's House

Oh hey sake.

Beyond this second torii gate was a site we hadn't really seen there yet: all the bad fortunes were tied up. We were lucky enough to draw best luck, so we didn't have to worry about anything too much. To make sure it brought us these fortunes we tucked them inside our wallets for safe keeping and had our friend translate them later. The other pretty common thing at celebrations is sake (nihonshuu), and as each shrine brews its own throughout the year, every shrine you visit will have a different sake, with Fushimi Inari having one of the most important ones (because sake is made from rice, and Inari looks over it). Something pretty cool that they had on display was one of the processes for brewing and an explanation, though I'm not sure what specifically it was as it was entirely in Japanese.

Like I said before, there was a business ceremony going on that day as well, and throughout our time there we saw several priests heading towards a raised platform in a tent where we had previously watched the Karasu Zumo festivities from. We also had the chance to watch a professional sushi chef make quick work of a maguro tuna, utilizing every piece of meat all the way to the head.

Because it was such a nice day, we headed up all the way to the upper part of the shrine, a place we hadn't gone before. We saw a shrine just for a family, a deeper shrine for a god we still haven't figured out the name for but has to do with luck and, of course, a small Inari shrine. What was more surprising, though, was the fact that as we headed down the opposite side of the mountain (where there were no signs warning us of monkies), we found ourselves smack-dab in the middle of the Kamigamo neighborhood. There were houses right next to the torii gates and left us somewhat baffled about how it would feel to live next to a sacred site, and a UNESCO one on top of that.

Apart from that, our visit was rather uneventful. We didn't see any monkies, and were glad for that as Japanese monkies are fairly aggressive.

Happy Year of the Snake!

There was one other shrine I visited within the two week New Year holiday, which will be my next entry!

~Zenko~

Christmas in Japan

I'm slowly catching up, but here we've finally arrived at Christmas! This is going to be a pretty short post, as we did not do too many things to celebrate. Right before I had gone to Nara, our dorm building held a Secret Santa exchange. I made a jellyfish for who I was assigned and in return got a Fox Luigi key charm.

Ho-ho-ho, Merry Chicken

Come Christmas Eve, a couple of us headed out to karaoke. On the way we passed the KFC, and you may remember how I talked about how fried chicken is a traditional thing to eat for Christmas in Japan. Here's just a picture of just how crowded it was, as well as the Colonel dressed up in his Santa suit.

The other tradition is eating cake, and Christmas Cakes can range from being super expensive and nice (up to fifty dollars), to a little one for about ten. We ended up going to the bakery in the station's main shop area as well as a convenience store then heading on up to sing some Christmas songs. Actually we mostly ended up singing the usual song we do, but with Jingle Bells and Last Christmas thrown in.

Christmas Day was "treat yourself to pizza day" for me, since it's usually so expensive. It still was, but thankfully they had a small sale going that almost made it worth it. In Japan pizza's are small. A medium is about the same size as an American small and about as expensive as two large pizzas. If your wondering why, you might also wonder why sushi is so expensive in America. It's because it's a foreign food and considered the same we consider sushi (which I can buy for a dollar a plate).

New Year's posts are to come!
~Zenko~

Oh Deer!

While I didn't get to spend a whole lot of time in Nara and plan on visiting again, I thought it would still be a good idea to talk about my first trip there. Living where I do, it's not difficult to get too as it's equidistant from Kobe. My roommate had also wanted to visit to see the deer that Nara is famous for, because you can pet and feed them. Because people feed them though...

Beware the deer! They'll headbutt old ladies!

Look how disappointed he is!

Well if you have food, they will CHASE YOU AND TRY TO GET IT. Luckily we didn't have any food so we mostly just had disappointed deer. It was a bit fun watching them chase around other people though. The deer never had a problem with us, in fact we actually helped one cross the road. It was so sad that it couldn't jump the fence like the others had but he was just soooo old. Before we found any of the deer, though, we made it through a couple of temples and passed by several tea gardens. I was a bit surprised at the tea gardens, because I did not think that they were that popular in Nara.

As I said before, getting there wasn't difficult, it was just a little time consuming as we were not used to the special lines out that way. We actually ended up having to change stations from Keihan to JR by walking a half mile down the road. A lot of local commuters were already doing it and ran all the way down to the JR Line to transfer for their jobs. While we did make it onto JR, we discovered that it's a long enough ride that you have to get off at a terminal station and switch trains, otherwise you'll start heading back the way you came (which is exactly what happened to us). Getting back proved a lot easier, as all the trains were heading back towards Kyobashi terminal in Osaka. If that seems backwards to you, its how most of the trains work in Japan. It's pretty confusing actually.

In the middle of no where, where highschoolers still commute

 Until next post!
~Zenko~

Ro-Ro-Roppongi Hills!

The last day on our trip I actually separated from the group to go meet one of my friends that's been studying abroad here in Japan for a while. So while my friends went to Shinjuku to check out the sites from their favorite shows, I went to meet her in Roppongi. Getting there was an adventure, as instead of taking the normal JR Line I had to take the Tokyo Subway system. Just getting there started a running joke among us that the richer an area was, the nicer their train stations would be. Ikebukuro station, for instance, had no benches or waiting area for commuters. There weren't even any water fountains. When I passed through Roppongi and Ginza, though, there were benches aplenty! It was pretty different from the Keihan stations and Kansai JR stations we were used to, where there's always someplace to sit.

While we waited to head out, I asked the subway attendendant how to reach Roppongi, and she told me...but she told me much too high a fare and forgot to include transfers! I did make it to my stop, but only after changing trains twice. It's also interesting to note that the subways were actually nicer over all then the normal Osaka subway lines I've ridden. There's a lot more put into the display at the very least.
When I reached Roppongi the first thing I noticed was....just how rich it all was. It felt like I had just entered the Japanese version of Beverly Hills, and I really had.

Believe it or not, having a Cheech and Chong's is a sign of being rich.

There were tons of foreign places which meant, apart from being a hub for foreigners, it was a place where people with money were at. Because American food is regarded in the same way Americans regard sushi, the more there is in one place, the more money there generally is. It did mean, though, that I got to have Wendy's with bacon (real bacon!) on it for the first time in months. After I met up with my friend though (and got my mom something to add to her snowman collection at the Christmas store they had set up), I headed out to meet up with my group again in Shibuya, the publishing capital of Japan.

Hachiko: The dog that waited

Shibuya is famous for two reasons apart from that: the first is that it has the Hachiko Memorial set up for the dog that waited for his master until he died (his master had died from illness and taken the train out of Shibuya every morning; if your interested in the story Hachi: A Dog's Story is wrong but has the general idea behind it). The second is the Shibuya Scramble! It's a lot easier to see at night, but even during the day you can see hundreds of people cross about ten different crosswalks at the same time in the same place. You actually have to be really careful not to hit anyone as you do it.

After Shibuya it was time to head home, so we joined rush hour traffic (that resulted in us getting separated again) and headed to Tokyo station. From there it was just a brief walk to get to the night bus station and we were off. As for the night bus...it was actually one of the nicest buses you can get on and considering we paid about $20 it was a good deal. Unfortunately because it was a night bus I still only got about an hours worth of sleep (but made it to the second half of Space Odyssey 2001 before I fell asleep this time!).

See you in the next post!
~Zenko~

Pedestrian Para-Para Paradise!

Schoolwork has been keeping me a bit busy, but someday I plan on writing up a few posts in queue so none of my travelings get missed!

On our second day in Tokyo, Sunday, I made certain we went to the ultimate pilgramage for fans of Japanese Popular Culture: Akihabara. The reasoning for this is pretty simple: I like Japanese Popular Culture, and Pedestrian's Paradise finally reopened after three years. It was closed for so long as a result of the Akihabara Massacre, where I man ran down the road in a truck during a time in which the road is closed and thus everyone uses it. This aside, its a really interesting phenomenon. When the street isn't closed, cars advertising everything from computers to new video games drive up and down the street. When it is, though, the entire road becomes a giant sidewalk. Giving Akiba's (the shortened form) popularity, this is a pretty nice hing as otherwise the sidewalks become entirely too congested.

It's congested even with Pedestrian's Paradise

The group I was with had a ball going into the different anime goods stores and seeing just how different it is from Nipponbashi (DenDen Town) in Osaka. It's a lot bigger for one, and there is certainly a larger variety of goods. For instance, there are entire shops dedicated to selling the prizes you can receive from gacha machines (machines with capsules inside, much like the quarter machines at supermarkets in America). That in itself was not surprising, what was was the fact that it was two stories tall. In our wanderings we even found a store dedicated to selling tabletop games and accessories. There were even groups playing on the side room, and peeking in revealed something interesting. In America the demographics for these games are entirely male, and its rare to see a girl playing (I'm not saying it doesn't happen, I know several girls beside myself that do), but in Japan there was a fair mixture of male and females playing.

Fact: this store's mascot gained it's own anime. [DigiCharat]

One of the other events we were lucky enough to see was a self-built PC Expo, where people were showing off their new machines and even, for those who entered, having a competition. The one person we watched was showing off a low-spec computer that he had installed Windows 8 on, hoping it would work. It did, but immediately hit a fatal error, causing the audience to laugh along with him.

While we were there, we were also interviewed by a cable program. They asked us some questions such as "who do you think has been the most influential Japanese celebrity in your country this year." You weren't allowed to name celebrities, and it seemed like a lot of people had named AKB48 as there weren't really interested in hearing about the group. Even though I agreed the idol group is slowly making its way abroad, I answered Kyary Pamyu Pamyu who gained internet fame quickly in the US for her music video to PonPonPon! I also answered Hatsune Miku, despite her being a virtual idol, as she recently had several concerts in the US as well. They were really interested in that for some reason.

My friends were also interviewed.

After Akihabara we continued our nerd tour and headed to Harajuku, not for fashion but for the Evangelion Store. This is a store dedicated entirely to the show Neon Genesis Evangelion, and its popularity was astounding. The fact that there were wedding bands and motorcycles designed around the show is really amazing, and goes to show that even those outside of otaku interests can appreciate it.

The Eva Store was extra Christmasy for December.

Before we headed to dinner, we decided to try and find the female version of Akihabara in Ikebukuro, known as Maiden Road (Otome Michi). We got to the area, finding the forerunner Animate store in the area, but never made it to what is really considered the district. It was still a pretty fun walk, but we were all really hungry and headed back to the district our hotel was in, and had dinner at a little "TexMex" bar. And boy, does Japan do TexMex in an interesting way. For instance, despite being an "American" bar, we still managed to order takoyaki. These weren't ordinary takoyaki either, but Russian Takoyaki: one contained pure wasabi. We had just finished telling someone it wasn't spicy when my friend hit upon it and instantly changed her mind. We also had a version of the everything but the kitchen sink burger: it was stacked to reach our heads from the table and a little ridiculous (okay, a lot ridiculous).

Until next time!

SERIOUSLY HUGE

~Zenko~

Let's Explore Tokyo!

Side Hall at the temple we were at

Surprisingly, it was our first day in Tokyo and our trip to Daiba that was the nerdiest trip we had and not the one to Akihabara. But before we got there we decided to head to Tokyo Tower, even though it was quite cold and rainy. We let one of our friends lead the way and she took us by an old Tokugawa Buddhist temple that had been converted from a Shinto shrine (like so many were during the Tokugawa reign). You might be wondering how I know, and there were actually a few hints to let you know. If you wash your hands before you enter the temple, it was most likely a shrine before hand. I knew the date of the temple and who built it by the crest on the very top entrance. I did not take a clear picture, but fairly often you can find a crest along one of the posts or above the entrance, which will let you know what family sponsored it.

Main Hall and Tokyo Tower

The main hall was huge, but when most knew we were exactly where we needed to be by the looming modern buildings behind it. And by modern buildings I mostly mean Tokyo Tower. We didn't stay too long at the temple mostly because there was a ceremony going on and we didn't want to be too much of a bother to those who were participating in it (I seriously walk into almost every ceremony in Japan, it's strange). So we headed off to Tokyo Tower fairly quickly. It isn't too far of a walk from where we were at, and because of the rain the streets weren't terribly crowded either. Unfortunately, because of the weather, we also could not see much from the observation deck either (on a clear day you can see Mt Fuji). It was really weird seeing almost everything under fog, especially in Tokyo. All of the larger skyscrapers, even from the second first observation deck, were pretty small. Riding the elevators up are an adventure as well, because they add in a light show and a Disney-esque announcer. As interesting as an experience as that was, our real aim that day was to make it to the life-size Gundam model, and though it took us awhile, we were able to find it. But first we had to have some childhood memories brought up.

Hey Digimon Hey Digimon!

Daiba: one of the key locations for Digimon throughout its seasons. Me and another friend are big fans of it, so we had a ball pointing out all the different locations. Actually it was kind of scary, being able to find so many of them. But that had largely to do with the skill of the animation team to reproduce the island so faithfully. Even with modernization and the new monorail, the locations were still really obvious. It was probably pretty amusing for the other fairly regular residents and even the tourists there for the Gundam and voice actress group, to see us running around so excited to see all the different sites.

Based on the original Gundam.

The island, as tiny as it was, made it surprisingly difficult to find the giant robot that we wanted. You would think that it would be pretty easy to find, all things considered, but it wasn't until we did some further on the fly google searching and navigating that we were able to get there. When you get there...its really obvious. Even more so considering its in the middle of a major shopping area. It was even more exciting than usual to be there as they were holding their Christmas extravaganza show. We waited until about six o'clock for it to start, and it was worth it getting to see the Gundam move, the Christmas edition of the video and feeling everyone get just as excited as I was about it.

Regardless if you follow the series or not, much like Evangelion, is really popular in Japan and almost everyone knows it to some extent. At the very least, they're able to recognize it and how awesome having a semi-working giant robot is. Because it was getting late and we were getting tired, we headed back not too long after seeing the show. Next time will be day three of our trip when we went to Akihabara and (briefly) Harajuku.

~Zenko~